HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 Note: I am not the owner of the following content!!!! This post is available and shared with special thanks to www.vwt4forum.co.uk

HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 The N75 valve is like a switch controlling the turbo wastegate actuator.  The wastegate itself is normally closed allowing  exhaust gases to spin the turbo. When the wastegate actuator opens the wastegate,  exhaust gases are diverted away from the turbo.  This is necessary as excessive boost would result in engine damage. The ECU uses the N75 valve to maintain correct boost levels by comparing readings  from the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure G71) with it's engine map.  If the N75 fails to open the wastegate actuator the ECU triggers 'safe mode'  limiting fuelling levels resulting in power loss.   Always check the wastegate actuator and MAP sensor if you suspect a faulty N75 valve. This graphic shows how boost pressure from the turbo is used by the N75 to regulate pressure  to the wastegate actuator, as found on ACV AJT AYC AYY engines.  It is important to appreciate that how it all looks and works will depend on the engine code,  as there are different turbos and valves in use. TESTING Pull connector (1) off N75 valve (2) Use a multimeter to measure resistance between valve contacts 2. Spec ACV AJT AYC AYY = 25 to 45Ω Spec AHY AXG AXL = 15 to 20Ω Replace valve If spec not attained If spec attained... Switch on ignition and measure supply voltage at connector plug 1 and engine earth Spec approx 12v. If spec not attained check wiring back to ECU. ADDITIONAL NOTES The N18 EGR solenoid valve is very similar to the N75 and has the same 2 pin connector plug. In fact, some engines use this type of valve for both functions (see graphic at end for AHY type engines). It is therefore possible to swap over all the pipes and plugs and use it to perform the job of an N75 valve. This is a useful way of checking the performance of N75 valve in addition to the above checks and can save you the cost of buying a replacement if you go for an EGR delete.   It is worthwhile replacing all the hoses to the N75 as it is very difficult to 'see' leaks and the rubber does deteriorate. I recommend using performance silicone hoses as they do not cost much more, come in a range of colours and are easier to slip on and off for maintenance. Use a hand pump such as a 'mity vac' or similar to check wastegate actuator is working. Pull off actuator hose and connect pump directly to it. As you apply pressure the actuator rod should at some point begin to move until the wastegate is fully open. Check vagcom for DTCs and check to see that the MAP sensor is working correctly. A 'leaking' wastegate or 'faulty' actuator is not normally repairable and at present requires complete turbo replacement. Last edited by JIMMYJAMES; 22-10-10 at 03:17.. Reason: Prefix HOW TO added.

» Re: HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 G'day, I have pretty much a similar problem to Chappers. It happens randomly and resets everytime by turning ignition off and back on again.

HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 Having same issues with mine, plus VAGCOM says N75 ground/earth intermittent. Good strong 12vsupply across the pins, couldnt reach the ones on back of valve with the votmeter but im pretty confident its the N75 if ive got a good supply...

» Re: HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 Thanks Guys - Had a T5 for a year now and despite speaking with a local garage and a VW dealer was unable to diagnosis the fault, been told it was either the clutch or the ABS pump (both mega expensive jobs). Found this last evening described the fault in a linked post (mooing noise a I called it a buzz, maybe that where I went wrong!). Bought the valve today fitted it (15 minutes test) - driven sorted. £40!! Thanks again had to join to post my thanks

» Re: HOW TO - Test Charge Pressure Solenoid Valve AKA N75 Simliar problems and help welcomed. I have read every forum post on limp mode and power loss and a lot of help acheived. 2.5tdi 102bhp acv I have power loss of around 10-15% almost all the time now, it was occasional and presumed this to be limp mode. Changed all pipes for silicone, replaced weak battery, cleaned ecu cover and replaced, had new cambelt and reassured its "spot-on"! Tried driving with/without air filter, loads of suction and no difference. Turbo whistles as it should. Tried driving with MAF sensor unplugged, no change Bought the cheapo vagcom cable and free software, plugged in and reads: 05500 Start of Injection Regulation 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent Cleared this, but comes straight back This week i have checked n75 voltage, I have 12v on pin 1 to earth, 7.5v pin 2, and 7.5v pin 1 to 2. Same reading at point where wires come out of ecu Ohms reading 33 N18 similar IMPORTAN NOW THEN, drove 4 miles, disconnected/reconnected power to both N75 and N18, and I GOT POWER BACK Did the vagcom thing again, and no errors Drove all day on and off with full power, BUT, once engine cooled(4 hours), i was back to power loss. Did the same steps, and power back again. I presume changing the N75/N18 are pretty straight forward though i dont wont to damage anything, 1 input and 2 output air pipes on each? What is the small filter fitted via pipe from N18? This has a tiny whole around (3mm circular puncture wound) in the filter itself inside its housing, might put a blob of glue on it as i cant identify the part Had this ongoing for 4 months and starting to lose hair! Please please please, advise and help welcome (Thanks to Simon and all you others for getting me this far)